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Glenelg River Kayak 3 day trip — 19-22 Feb 2026

On a perfect Thursday, 9 paddlers with 8 kayaks met up at Nelson Vic Caravan Pk to set up camp in prep for 3 days paddling down the Lower Glenelg River.

This was just a taste of how the weather looked after us for the whole paddle, even giving us enough time to set up camp back at Nelson on kayak day 3, before the predicted rain returned.

After a meal at the Pub Thursday night, we slept as a fog came in, giving the small seaside town a real fishing town feel. We awoke to a great day, and although there were some experiencing this kind of adventure for the 1st time, and with new equipment and limited set up experience, we set off with plenty of time.

Kayak day 1

Thank you Anne and Simon for going the extra mile(lots with the car shuttle) and assisting with the set up of others. We soon relaxed into a leisurely paddle from Moleside campsite to our 1st camp site at Georges Rest. A special mention to new club member Rosemary, for her effort, her great attitude, and enduring some members humour, persevering with steering issues and water intake until camp. While setting up camp, and cooking a meal, Rosemary also re-adjusted her kayak setup and repaired a hole…all before the sunset. Great effort for a 1st timer. Another test to Rosemary, and to all, was the organiser ( me) had sourced wrong info, and the paddle was 3.5km longer than predicted. The obligatory ribbing was received.

Kayak Day 2

The second day had a perfect 18km paddle to Lasslets Camp site. The weather was cool, the rest stops lovely, and bird life interesting. Many experienced emus in water for the 1st time. The very relaxed atmosphere of the paddles each day, led to paddlers playing under branches, around obstacles, into caves and under over hanging cliffs. A little bit of splashing, racing and bumping may have going on as well.

At the campsite, most took the opportunity for a swim, a read, or just soaking up the vibe. There were other paddling campers on the site, and all were commenting and predicting the concerning weather info we were expecting that night and the next day. We all retired for the night prepared for the possibility that it would be an AM packing of kayaks in the rain, then paddling in some rain and probable increasing head winds, and possible lightning.

Kayak Day 3

What we received instead was: the rain stopping well before we arose. Then a breeze actually assisted us all morning heading West, and again after a break, when the river was now meandering East toward Nelson as the wind then strengthened to a steady following wind, making our last hour a very comfortable and hastened paddle.  Rosemary, had to work a bit as she adjusted to the following winds in her new kayak, but soon appreciated the extra speed. This ended up being the perfect 15km to finish the trip. The scenery, the cliffs and the greenery were much enjoyed each day. There was no lightning and the rain held of till we had packed up at Nelson, and set up our tents. Dinner was again at the local hotel, where various fresh made pizzas were enjoyed along with a few drinks and laughs.

Kayak Day 4

The next morning, we all parted company, some enjoying a visit to the beach lookout before saying goodbye. All very fortunate regarding: the weather, the campsites, the well kept toilets, the minimal mosquitos, ants and flies, and no leeches. It was one of those paddles where all got a lot out of the adventure and the company.

Highlights

At the end of each paddle day, Anne sourced highlight comments from each paddler. Here is a selection summary of responses:

  • Day 1: The different colours of green, impenetrable scrub on each side, conversations with others, relaxed, companionable, good crew, Berny ‘flying past’ as he towed Rosemary. Going under low branches.
  • Day 2, Limestone Cliffs and swimming at camp, exchanging paddles, trying a greenland, helpful tips, bird life, a Great Crested Grebe.
  • Day 3, Fortunate, Fulfilled, Friends, Fun, Conversations, Spacious, Awesome, Good, Good, Good. Cliffs, Caves. Tail Winds, Stunning Scenery. Jokes, Magnificent.

And some insider comments:

  • “Upside-down, right way up, and Forward (referring to the changing progress of Rosemary’s Kayak experience.)”
  • “Its a scream ( referring to a certain paddlers vocal responses while kayaking into, around and under various tree overhangs.)”
  • Lets go under that branch (referring to certain paddlers enjoying the challenge and sometimes testing physics and height limitations.)
  • Weekend With Berny ( Alluding to A movie comedy).

Joke of the paddle: What do you call a man with a Rubber Toe? Roberto.

All very hilarious,  I know. But all said a very good paddle, and great crew.

Circumnavigation of Freycinet Penninsula, Tasmania 1-3 April 2025

The Third Paddle in Tassie

Freycinet National Park was the third of three paddles in Tasmania. The awesome, challenging and varied sea states made this sea kayaking at its best! It’s why we went to Tasmania to go sea kayaking.
The plan for this part of the Tasmanian Odyssey was to be three days paddling and two nights camping out of the kayaks. The first and last nights in the area we camped at the National Park campground at Richardson Beach. The first day’s paddling was from Richardson Beach (Coles Bay) down the sheltered west side of the peninsula and across Schouten Passage to camp on Morey’s Beach on Schouten Island; approximately 24Km. The following day paddle up the seaward side of Freycinet Peninsula to the very sheltered campsite on the south eastern end of Wineglass Bay. This bay is listed as one of the 10 most stunning beaches in the world! About 22Km for the day. The final day was onto Bluestone Bay approximately 12Km. Prior to setting off, we left some cars at Bluestone Bay to allow the group to get back to Coles Bay once the paddling was done.

Day One-1st April

In discussing the likely conditions on the night before there was some concern at the forecast 20Kn southerly winds that we would need to punch into for the 24Km down to Schouten Island. The group decided to give it a go. We had contingency plans to camp at Cook’s Beach or one of the other pristine beaches along the way if all got too much.
All were on the beach ready for the challenge at the designated start time of 930am. Conditions were calm and glassy and the view south of the coast and high peaks just stunning. The first part of paddle down to Fleurieu Point was uneventful as the coast was sheltered from the winds. Once we reached the point and turned towards Hazards Beach we were into the southerly head wind and things got quite a bit harder. We were all pleased to pull in behind Refuge Island for a short break before pushing onto Cooks Beach camping area for lunch.
Leaving Cooks Beach we were again faced with a strong southerly as we paddled the remaining 12Km to Schouten Island to camp the night. Crossing Schouten Passage directly into the wind was a major challenge and seemed to take forever. We were all thoroughly done on reaching the very sheltered bay. The camp area was great as all got stuck into preparing a well-earned meal. Greg had the foresight to check the tides and informed the group that there was an exceptionally large tide in the early hours of the next morning.  He suggested we all bring our kayaks up off the beach. If we had not done this the kayaks would have definitely drifted away as the tide consumed the beach and some of the access track that night!

Day Two-Wednesday 2nd April

The forecast for this day was for a 2m swell but light winds so we looked forward to an easy trip up the coast. On paddling out of the shelter of the bay we met huge mountains of water charging down the channel between the island and the peninsula. The paddle up to Wineglass Bay was not going to be as easy as discussions the night before suggested. Most had not paddled in such a swell and those that had took time to adjust. Once out of the channel and heading north along the cliffs things got worse as the 4m swell hitting the cliffs gave huge rebound effects creating clapotis like waves.
At times, when perched on top of a steep peak, it was hard to reach the water with your paddle! The leaders surveyed the group to ascertain if all were confident to continue as planned. Surprisingly all were up to it and after a time settled into the task with confidence. Being on top of one of the extra large swells and looking 5-6m down the face to the paddlers in front of the group was extraordinary. This day was a challenging, exhilarating paddle pushing everyone to their limits. We described it as  “dirty dancing with the sea” or like “paddling in a washing machine”.
We didn’t take many pics on this day as it was all hands on the paddle to keep moving and keep upright!
The landing site at the campsite in Wine Glass Bay was tucked in behind a headland and protected from the huge swell that was thundering in like a steam train on the other side of the bay. The camp area was rather stunning with a stream of crystal-clear water flowing behind the camp and high peaks across the bay in the other direction.
Once rested, there was time to enjoy beautiful Wineglass Bay and a walk across the narrow isthmus to look at Hazards beach.

Thursday 3rd April

The last leg involved paddling past Cape Tourville Lighthouse and onto Bluestone Bay and was considered relatively easy after what we had been through the day before. The swell had mostly abated overnight and winds were almost calm. However we had some concerns about landing on a beach which was covered with large rounded boulders. Again the coastal cliffs, small islands and sea scape on the journey were stunning. There was much relief on arriving at the landing zone to see the rocks covered with a thick layer of kelp from the storm the day before. This provided a soft landing but a slippery crawl for people once out of their kayaks.
Timing was everything in such a landing. There was still a small swell running and the occasional larger set thumping into the rocks. The leaders set up a landing system where the group was marshalled outside the break zone and sent in one by one.
Those with plastic kayaks who were competent in landing in such conditions (Gordon & Charlie) went in first to survey the scene and select the best landing zone. Once ready others followed. The aim was to allow a wave to pass under the kayak and sprint in just behind it. This lessened the risk of being smashed into the rocks or the waiting helpers. Many in the group had practiced this in benign conditions back in Adelaide and this practice added to the smooth application when it was really needed! All landed with no damage done. Phil was last and was given the “Rolls-Royce” treatment of being hoisted right out of the water and up onto the kelp. He was much appreciative as he is not so nimble any more in exiting his kayak!

Dinner

We concluded the trip and told tall stories of the events of the last two weeks over dinner at Richardson’s bistro, Freycinet Lodge. What a fabulous adventure with such a diversity of paddling and incredible country to experience. All with good friends in Adelaide Canoe Club!
Acknowledgement to Greg and Karl our professional photographers for these amazing shots! Really captured the feeling of being in such a place!

Overall statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Chowilla — 8 – 10 March 2025

Careful Planning

We carefully planned the trip for just after summer to avoid the heat. Unfortunately mother nature did not cooperate, with forecast temperatures of 39 degrees. Six intrepid paddlers decided to brave the heat and go anyway. Luckily for them as the weather was not as bad as expected. We had mostly overcast days and a bit of wind to keep us cool, especially after a refreshing dip in the river.

Starting at Customs House

We arrived at the launching spot near Customs House Houseboats about midday on Saturday. We  quickly unloaded the kayaks from the cars and packed, as we were all eager to set off before it got too hot. A short paddle across the river, and then we let the current take us down Suders creek to get to Hypurna Creek. This was not as eventful as it normally is. The big tree which normally blocks the creek seems to have been washed away which made the trip down relatively easy.

We paddled up Hypurna creek for another 6kms or so to get to our campsite. This was slower going than anticipated due to the lower water levels and increased number of fallen trees. Last time we paddled it, it was in flood, and we had trouble finding where the creek was.

After finding a suitable campsite we pulled up and set up camp. We soon put up tents, inflated mattresses, assembled tables and chairs. After such effort, we took a cooling swim in the creek, disturbed only by the shrimps nibbling on your feet if you stayed still for too long.

Circular Day

Next day we left the camp set up and paddled off in un-laden kayaks for a (hopefully) circular route to get back to the camp by a different creek. We continued up Hypurna creek for another 6kms, navigating an increasingly congested creek until we joined Salt Creek, which was wider but was just as congested. Another 3km of fallen trees and snags and we finally reached the Murray River, where we had a well-deserved lunch break, and another swim.

After lunch we set off down the Murray, finally paddling with the current. After 6kms of relaxing, un-congested, snag free paddling we reached the entrance to Wilperna creek, which would take us back to our camp, provided we could get through it!

Luckily Wiperna creek proved to be mostly clear despite being narrower than all the other creeks we had been through. Mostly clear. Right at the end, 100 m from the camp, the creek was completely blocked by a large fallen tree, necessitating people having the climb out of their kayaks, onto the log, drag the kayak over the log, and then climb back in again. Some people opted to skip the last step and just walked back to camp while the kayaks drifted back.

After another cooling swim, some red wine and an early dinner, we watched the sun set before heading to bed for another warm night. I definitely over packed, didn’t even need a sleeping bag really.

Last Day

Next morning we packed up the camp and headed off down Hypurna creek. This time with the current so all the obstacles were a bit easier to manage. We opted to do a short (100m) portage to get back to the Murray rather than try and paddle back up Suders creek. This wasn’t too bad despite the kayaks being loaded. Carry straps and six people per kayak made short work of it. We took the opportunity to have a final swim before setting off to do the final few kilometres to get back to the launching spot.

Upon arrival, we quickly unpacked and loaded the kayaks back onto the cars, as the cloud cover had gone, and the sun was starting to bite. We then headed back into Renmark to the nearest bakery to stock up on some unhealthy, but well deserved, treats before saying our goodbyes and setting off back to Adelaide in gloriously air-conditioned cars.

Wedge Island Kayaking Expedition – 23-25 January 2025

Day 0 – Arrival & Preparation

A number of participants travelled together to Pondalowie Bay, with several kayaks transported via the group trailer. Upon arrival at Pondalowie Campsite, the group set up for the night and held a detailed briefing to go over the trip logistics, safety measures, and anticipated conditions for the crossing. The excitement was high as discussions covered navigation, weather expectations, and contingency plans.

Group briefing & Pondalowie Bush Camp Site

However, the reminder that not all risks are water-based came early, as one participant had an unfortunate run-in with a large limestone rock in the dark. The resulting injury required a trip to Yorketown Hospital the next day, and further X-rays upon return to Adelaide confirmed a broken arm. Despite this setback, the group rallied and prepared for the adventure ahead.
A special thanks to Frances G. She acted as our emergency land contact, coordinating National Park vehicle access, and providing first aid support.

Day 1 – Departure & Island Exploration

The group packed up early, drove to Pondalowie Beach for unloading, and conducted final launch discussions. With a slight outgoing tide and near-perfect conditions, the expedition set off smoothly.

Although the wind made a few weak attempts at a sea breeze, it remained still throughout the day, creating an ideal paddling environment. On-water breaks provided opportunities to check GPS tracking, revealing some minor course deviations. About an hour from the planned route, the group opted to detour south towards the smaller islands at the southeast corner of Wedge Island.

 

Upon approach, the awe-inspiring weathered cliff faces and cavernous sea caves immediately caught the attention of the paddlers. The underlying 1.2m swell created surges along the rock shelves, giving a dramatic effect to the crystal-clear deep waters below. Some members enthusiastically explored the caves, taking in the raw, untouched beauty of the island’s coastline.

Wildlife sightings were plentiful. Pods of dolphins accompanied the group. A sea eagle soared overhead, and yellow-footed rock wallabies peered down curiously from the cliffs.
Continuing north along the coastline, the group landed inside the eastern headland on the main beach. As the afternoon heat set in, many took the opportunity to relax, chat, and even take a well-earned nap. Others explored the expansive beach on foot, soaking in the remote beauty of Wedge Island.

 

An unexpected sighting in the afternoon was a police helicopter and AMSA jet circling low over the eastern end of the island. Tuning into the VHF radio revealed that a small fishing boat had deployed an EPIRB. Authorities quickly confirmed that the crew was safe.
Limited mobile reception was discovered on a small rise behind the beach camp, allowing for a quick weather check and land contact update.

 

Day 2 – The Return Paddle

The forecast easterly breeze and small fetch arrived as expected in the morning. It created a shimmering reflection on the water as the sun rose behind the paddlers. For the first stretch of the crossing, Yorke Peninsula was not visible, requiring navigation by compass. The morning’s conditions were peaceful, with frequent visits from pods of dolphins, shearwaters, and storm petrels, providing incredible moments along the way.

 

As the easterly winds eased, they gradually shifted southeast and freshened throughout the afternoon. Slowly, the coastline of Yorke Peninsula and the distinctive West Cape features emerged on the horizon. They offered fresh perspectives of the rugged landscape and nearby Althorpe Island. A unique sight on the return journey was a large industrial pylon rig being towed by a tugboat. From a distance, it was difficult to determine what it was, creating an unusual contrast against the open ocean backdrop.

After a solid and steady paddle, the group landed safely back at Pondalowie Boat Ramp, marking the successful completion of an unforgettable journey. Kayaks were loaded, and the team parted ways—some heading straight home, while others opted to extend their adventure.

Trip Highlights

  • Wildlife encounters: Multiple pods of dolphins, sealions, a sea eagle, yellow-footed rock wallabies, and three 1m tuna following one kayak, White-faced storm petrel, Shearwaters, Gannets.
  • Island exploration: The southeast cliffs and sea caves of Wedge Island provided breathtaking scenery and an adventurous detour.
  • Challenging but rewarding conditions: Navigation, distance, some tidal flows, self-sufficiency and weather made for a true expedition-style experience.
  • Unforgettable moments: From the glassy waters on the crossing to the spectacular cliffs.

The Wedge Island expedition proved to be a wonderful journey, combining adventure, endurance, and the raw beauty of South Australia’s remote coastline. A fantastic experience for all involved!

Karl Meyer

Overall statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Pondalowie Bay – Wedge Island return: 70.9 Km

 

Coffin Bay — 5 – 9 February 2024

Monday

Monday 5th February we set off from the beach near the Coffin Bay Caravan Park. A 9 knot south easterly wind made the sea choppy with occasional waves washing sideways over our kayaks. The Brothers Islands gave us a short respite before we crossed to Eely Point. Then along the sheltered cliffs to our camp at Black Springs. The early start to avoid the strong winds in the afternoon meant we completed the 17km before lunch.

Greg and Chris were pleased that they had stayed upright in the choppy water and Steve enjoyed a sail from the Brothers Islands when the wind was more from behind. Simon, Greg and Steve had a lazy afternoon at camp. Chris and Anne set off on the Black Rocks hike. Looking out over Avoid Bay, Chris and Anne spotted a large Osprey nest with a couple of osprey that took flight and screeched overhead.

Tuesday

Another early start paddling on Tuesday, to take advantage of the calm conditions. We made it through the oyster beds (always a highlight) and around Point Longnose and then were mainly sheltered close in along Seven Mile Beach. We stopped to look at a whale skull which had washed up on the beach years ago. It is amazing how big the skull and top jaw was. No sign of other bones though, so hard to estimate how long the whale was.

Seven Mile beach is mainly large sand dunes and Chris was wishing for a slide down their steep slides. Instead we enjoyed looking at the seaweeds and the couple of rocky reefs as we paddled to Morgans Landing. Again the early start meant we were setting up camp before lunch then enjoyed a restful afternoon having paddled about 20km. Morgans Landing camp sites were inundated with bees. However, Greg solved our problems. He put a bowl of water away from our tents and the bees congregated there to get a drink instead of on us.

Wednesday

Wednesday was the best. We left camp set up and headed north to The Pools campsite then around Point Sir Isaac and into Seasick Bay, which was remarkably calm. We could look down into the clear water and see fish and a multitude of different seaweeds, sea grasses and sea lettuce. Simon and Anne have been trying to get to Point Sir Isaac on two other ACC Coffin Bay trips. A lightning storm first and then strong winds made it impossible. This trip we made it! The water was so calm we could see a pod of dolphins feeding. There was so much splashing and blow spouts that Steve thought it might be a group of orcas.

A nearby fishing boat went to get a closer look and reported back that it was just dolphins. We turned around fairly soon after morning tea because the forecast was for stronger headwinds for our return journey. The forecast was correct, we were glad to be back at camp for lunch, avoiding winds over 15 knots.

Thursday

Another early start on Thursday to avoid the strong afternoon winds. We had a beautiful paddle back along Seven Mile Beach with the early morning light highlighting the sculptured sand hills. Point Longnose has changed; there is now a channel through, with a sand island further out. The water was shallow and so calm as we paddled back through the oyster beds that we could see starfish and Fiddler Rays below the kayaks.

Then the deeper water past the oyster beds was whipped up by a strong head wind and odd currents into tricky confused waves. Our aim was to head straight into the waves as best we could. Then when in the shelter of the beach make our way back to Black Springs campsite. In the difficult conditions Greg and Steve became separated from Simon, Anne and Chris. Then Chris got swamped and needed a rescue. After a successfully completing his first rescue in his new kayak we continued our battle towards the sheltered water and then camp. Everyone made it safely, pleased at managing the difficult conditions. Once again our early start has us having lunch after our day’s paddle, then setting up camp and relaxing.

Back to Coffin Bay

Knowing that we would have a head wind on the way back to Coffin Bay township we are again up early and setting off just before the sun rose. The paddle back to Eely Point was OK, with just a slight breeze then we turned into a strong headwind. This time we managed a tight group as we paddled into waves and wind towards The Brothers Islands. We enjoyed a short rest there looking at some seals that came into the water but not too close to us. Leaving The brothers had us initially in very confused water as tide and wind were mixing in odd ways. Once away from the islands the water settled into consistent waves and about a 13 knot head wind. Another stop on a small beach for some food and rest had us refreshed for the final push to Coffin Bay township.

With the wind from the south east we planned to get close to the town then cross over to the town side and hope for some shelter. However, by the time we got there the wind had swung around slightly to an easterly, so no rest from that. We had checked the tides and knew we had a following tide so were confused when we got near the town and found a wind-set current going against us! It just all worked against us in the last stretch to our end point but we made it. We had managed the 17 km against head wind, waves and without the tide assistance.

Time for Oysters

After setting up camp and having a luxuriously long shower we went over to Oysters HQ to sample the best Coffin Bay oysters and beer. Then enjoyed dinner at the Yacht Club to celebrate our achievement of completing the paddle around Point Sir Isaac. We survived the tricky waves and wind and the general wonderment that Coffin Bay offers in the pristine waters, magnificent sand hills and cliffs and wilderness of the National Park.

Sailing the Coorong from Salt Creek to Murray Mouth — 2-5th January 2024

Embarking on a memorable expedition, our team, comprised of Phil Doddridge, Greg Adams, and Matthew Eldred, set sail from Salt Creek around 11 am on Tuesday, January 2nd. The wind, as predicted, gained strength, facilitating a smooth 37 km paddle under sail to our initial campsite near Parnka Point, surrounded by mud. Notably, the Coorong’s water level was unexpectedly low. It was hovering around a meter below its optimal height. A recurring theme throughout the journey.

Through the mist

Day 2 dawned with a mysterious sea mist, casting an eerie atmosphere over our paddle. We also had a slower-than-anticipated southwest wind. Navigating westward through islands, coral reefs, and challenging sand flats, exacerbated by the low water level, proved a test of our resolve. The silver lining was the influx of birdlife drawn to the flats, offering a unique opportunity to appreciate nature.

Overcoming the hazards, including negotiating the needles and coral blockage we suffered minor skin abrasions but we considered it the small price of admission. Beyond this obstacle, the remainder of the journey to the Coorong cabins, where Phil’s car awaited, became a smooth paddle into the mist.

Day 3 greeted us with lifted fog and a return of southeast winds at 10-15 knots. Despite persistent low water levels and expansive sand flats, the familiar sights of the Coorong’s freshwater soaks, rolling sand dunes, and aqua-colored waters made it a classic experience. A change of plans at Tauwitchere barrage lock. The low water and high winds made crossing into lake Alexandrina not appealing.

Murray Mouth

Opting for the Murray Mouth as our finishing point allowed us to capitalize on favorable winds. We completed the 110 km paddle from Salt Creek.

Throughout the trip, our backyard revealed hidden gems from enchanting campsites and islands to diverse wildlife and concealed shacks. The journey was a tapestry of discovery, weaving together the beauty of our surroundings and the thrill of exploration.

Morning in Chowilla

Four days exploring the creeks in the Chowilla reserve, in the Riverland — 19-22 Aug 2023

From Plan A to Plan B

Enjoying the calmness of ChowillaThe original trip was planned to traverse the Lindsay River. But the high river levels put paid to that, as the whole Lindsay Island was closed to the public. Making the best of a bad situation, we changed the trip to the Chowilla area, where high water levels open up a lot of normally dry creeks.

We launched at midday on Saturday and crossed the Murray to find the entrance to Suders creek, which is the entrance to backwater area. This is normally a challenge, with the entrance to the creek being narrow and fast flowing, but this time the levels were high and the current very manageable, and we were soon through to Hypurna creek, which we followed up for a few kilometers before setting up a base camp where we would stay for the next three nights.

Setting camp for the trip

After setting up camp and relaxing for a bit, we went off for an afternoon paddle to check out if the short-cut through to Salt Creek was open, as we planned to take that route the next day. Luckily the normally dry creek was easily navigable so we didn’t have to change our plans. We then retired back to camp to start dinner and sit around the campfire solving important world issues.

Day 2

Next day was an early start as we didn’t have pack up the camp. We were soon paddling through wide creeks and flooded trees through to Salt Creek.  We followed it upstream for about 8km to a horseshoe lagoon which we normally bypass. Encouraged by the high water levels we decided to explore it. We were rewarded with yet another new creek which took us back to Salt Creek, cutting 4kms off our trip.

After a few hundred meters on Salt Creek we found an unmarked creek which was flowing in the right direction. We decided to throw caution to the wind and set off down it into the unknown. Flowing water is always a good sign as it has to go somewhere. We were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves ending up in Hypurna Creek, which is where we were planning on going. After a gentle 5km paddle downstream we ended up back at camp. We were soon relaxing around the campfire discussing the next day’s paddle.

Day 3

Lunch break before paddling the MurrayNext morning, after a quick breakfast, we set off back up Hypurna Creek to do another circular loop in a different area. We passed the entrance to a shortcut to Wilperna Creek which had been planning on using, only to find that the water level was not quite high enough to make it passable. Disappointed, we carried on up to Salt Creek to have a mid-morning break and talk about our options. After a bit of discussion we decided to continue to the Murray, and follow that around to the entrance to Wilperna Creek.

Normally we try to avoid the main channel of the Murray, too big and too busy. But this time we found the river pretty much deserted. A relaxed paddle had us going down the river at 10 km/h. There was a lot of water in the river! At that pace we were soon through Higgins Cutting and did the 8kms to Wilpurna Creek with no trouble at all.

Wilpurna Creek is one of my favourite creeks, narrow and winding, with not too many obstacles. But it can be hard to find, as the entrance is small and is just downstream from the NSW border. Unfortunately the sign for the border is about ½ a kilometre away from the actual border, on the wrong side of the creek. Luckily my trusty GPS had the entrance marked with a waypoint. We practically floated down Wilperna Creek, around fallen trees, escorted by curious emus and seeing the occasionally kangaroo, and were soon back at camp again.

Chris had bought his yabbie nets along (I don’t know how he fits it all in his kayak), and had got lucky while we had been away. That night he treated all of us to some fresh yabbie meat snacks.

Day 4

Salt creek navigationOvernight our luck changed, and we had a bit of rain. Nothing heavy, but just enough to turn the ground into sticky mud, 10 steps were enough to add a few kilograms of the stuff to your shoes. After breakfast the camp was packed up quickly and carefully, trying to avoid most of the mud, and stopping occasionally to scrape the worst of off your shoes. Most of the gear went into the kayak reasonably cleanly, but the kayak cockpits ended up decidedly brown.

We paddled back down Hypurna Creek, aided by the current, paddling through trees which normally line the side of the creek. Some paddlers decided to do the portage back the Murray, while the rest decided to try paddling back up Suders. The portage point is well signposted, but we couldn’t find any of the signs, can only think that they must have been underwater. Kayaks were soon carried across to the Murray. The rest of the paddlers set of to try our luck going up Suders Creek. This proved to be an anti-climax, as it was an easy paddle back to the Murray and the cars.

We quickly threw  all the gear back in the cars, loaded the kayaks on the roof and put on some presentable clothes.  We then headed back to Renmark and the nearest bakery to indulge in a cup of hot coffee and some unhealthy treats before heading back to Adelaide, and a lot of washing of kayaks and gear.

Overall statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Saturday 19 August – Customs House to Campground, recce in the arvo – 11.95Km

Sunday 20 August – Salt Creek, Horseshoe Lagoon, Hypurna Creek – 24.1Km

Monday 21 August – Salt Creek, Wilpurna Creek, Murray River – 26.0Km

Tuesday 22 August – Campground, up Suders creek back to Customs House – 7.45Km

A weekend paddling Finniss River and Currency Creek — 10-11 June 2023

Day One

On Day 1, the paddlers packed their kayaks at Wally’s and were on the water by 9 am. They paddled 14 km to Clayton Bay where they stopped for lunch at 11:45 am. The winds were light from the north around 5 knots in the morning. After lunch, they skirted Hindmarsh Island before diving back northwest up Currency Creek. It wasn’t long before the old flour mill became their marker and point of interest. Once they made it to the flour mill, it was a quick paddle across to their campsite.

Tents were erected quickly to make time for the optional sunset paddle up Currency Creek to the main road bridge. The paddle up the creek is narrow only a few meters across, surrounded on both sides by tall reeds. They came across a portable cool room which had been washed down last winter.

Arriving back at camp, they were greeted by a fire prepared by Peter. With ample wood, the fire kept them warm while they told stories of camping sites past.

 

Day Two

On Day 2, there was not a breath of wind on the water. A slow start on the water by 9:30 am as it was hard to leave the fire and get into wet paddling gear. The paddle was easy as the predicted 8-knot crosswinds came late. There were no detours on the way back to the Finniss Channel. Once in the channel, they took the opportunity to explore some backwaters before finishing the trip.

Overall Statistics:

Day 1 35.2km

Day 2 21km

Total 56km

The Pages Expedition – KI South Coast – 21 – 26 April 2023

Day 1 and 2  – Victor Harbor to Pink Bay via The Pages

Karl Meyer, Ben Weigl, and Tresh Pearce met up at Pink Bay. Ben had earlier paddled solo from Cape Jervis, arranging to camp overnight along with the Adelaide Canoe Club (ACC) crew including Karl and Tresh. He had set up camp there before the weary ‘Pages’ paddlers landed late on Saturday 22nd April.  They had completed an epic ACC paddle from Victor Harbor to Ballaparudda Beach, camping overnight then on to Pink Bay at Kangaroo Island via the ‘Pages’ group of islets in Backstairs Passage. The trip was recently well-documented by Greg Adams from the Club.

Day 3 – Bay of Pinks to Pennington Bay

Breaking wind-against-tide clapotis around Cape Willoughby

The next day saw the trio set off for a further westward adventure around Cape Willoughby and along the South coast of the Island, aiming for Vivonne Bay. The remains of the ‘Pages’ expedition enjoyed a relaxing day before they headed to Antechamber Bay in the afternoon.

After launching and farewelling our comrades and the homely Bay of Pinks, we set our sails in the strengthening but still moderate easterly toward the nearby Cape with the awesome sight of its presiding lighthouse coming shortly into view. We knew we had missed the slack tide conditions and expected the wind-against-tide factor to come into play in rounding the Cape, causing rough sea conditions. This would be on top of the ever-present clapotis from the ocean swells in deep water meeting the sheer boulder cliffs under the lighthouse.

As we approached under full sail, the comments of James Fishers came to mind when he said during his and Dayna’s rounding of the Cape in 2022: that “it was the most hectic sea conditions he had ever paddled in”.  . . . . .  Well, that is pretty much what we experienced too. It was so concentrated and boiling with big breaking slop making for hectic and scary discomfort. I had been around the Cape a couple of times previously, but the conditions were nowhere near as severe then. The sails were good for providing the steady power to make headway through the clapotis paddock, as it seemed as though our paddles weren’t having much effect!  As well as going through the motions of forward stroking, they were being employed in bracing and keeping us upright.

Pennington Bay

Apparently, some or all of the ACC crew were walking to the lighthouse and saw us go through that. Greg Adams later said that seeing us set our sails for Cape Hart once we were through, was an inspiring sight. I’d say that for those of us on the water, once it had all sorted itself out after a km or two, it was more of a relief and then a deep pleasure to find ourselves with a steady breeze behind us, and we were away!

After an extremely pleasant sail around Cape Hart with its magnificent surf rolling onto the reefs, we rounded Black Point then eventually False Cape and were into the big indent of coast of Pennington Bay. The sea was often lumpy, the coastline magnificent.  After False Cape (and Black Point earlier), there are many beaches. So the clapotis disappears for a while and one can mosey along quite close behind the break. They were all breaking very close to the steep sandy shores. – evidence of extremely high-energy beaches. There may have been places to land but we didn’t see them.

Approaching Pennington it was getting on in the afternoon and we briefly looked for a small cove immediately west of the main beach, but couldn’t find it. Sometimes beaches disappear after wild weather, taking time to re-appear as the sand slowly redeposits. We chose the western end and landed through the moderate surf there onto an idyllic setting, sheltered and with the last of the sun disappearing behind the cliffs. It wasn’t cold at all and we were in high spirits at our good fortune in making it safely and very happily during our first leg.

Day 4 – Pennington Bay to Unknown Cove (A real Gem)

Camp in the D’Estrees Unnamed Cove

Shortly after leaving Pennington Bay my rudder became ineffective, a cable issue somewhere. Karl fixed it into a neutral position and I managed to sail and paddle using the stern rudder to keep on course in the steady easterly / northeasterly breeze. I could also keep my hands way off-centre of my paddle to lengthen the stroke on one side if necessary, but we mostly sailed. Upon landing it proved to be easily fixed with a minimum of tools.

Outside of this great little bay there were some awe-inspiring-looking breaks on the protecting reefs which we could get up close to and have a good look at. We waited around for Karl to do some surfing on the shoulders of them – so perfect were they. Alas, although we waited a good while, the sets didn’t return and perhaps we’d drifted from the best spot, so Karl has to wait for another opportunity!

Although none of us had direct experience of this cove, or knew anyone who had landed there (it just looked terrific from satellite maps), our bay turned out to be a real gem. We settled on the southern end of it, and made a delightful camp amid warm balmy conditions. At last we were in pristine country only occasionally visited by walking humans.

Day 5 – Unknown Cove near to bay near ‘Pogaroo’ Bay

That day was to be the pivotal day where we left all land-based accessibility along the Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park wilderness area. It really is heading out into the wild. We still had the most amazing conditions anyone could ever pray for: moderate swell and helpful breezes, not too strong, not too weak!

The little Bay just East of Cape Gantheaume

Not far from the Cape we landed in a little cove for an explore and a break. Now, theoretically there are no reliable unprohibited landing spots for sea kayakers before Seal Bay, meaning that Vivonne Bay should be the next landing. However Phil and Gordon had mentioned this little cove as a possibility (not sure if either of them had visited previously, but both said it was worth a look). It was very good to receive counsel from both of these very experienced expedition sea kayakers at different times before we set off along this Coast, I’m grateful that the accumulated pool of knowledge is so readily shared. We had also referred to the satellite images and seen the possibility, so gave it a go and it was perfect.  Good for camping too….. .. really, I’m talking perfect here. I think it has a large measure of protection from swell, however it would be scarcely visible from the usual half to a one kilometre offshore that most sea kayaking expeditions have to travel due to having to ‘get’ to Vivonne without dilly-dallying (our specialty) and the clapotis.  We had to share the bay with the resident sea lion population though!  We snacked there, and wandered around the breathtaking, but gentle cove, with a tiny hinterland of open shrubland.

Out to sea once more and we soon came to Cape Gantheaume. It is surrounded by many reefs but we paddled around them as the sea was calm. Although not a huge swell, there were many well-formed breaks all around the place.  The swell itself had a long interval and some were definitely 4 metres.  There were areas of reef that we were only 50 m from, a semicircle of Niagara Falls shape.  That is literally what it was like being near them from behind, it was not so much like waves breaking, but more like a waterfall going from high and falling into much lower ‘suck out’.  The continual roar even on this quiet day was ever-present and astounding, a constant reminder that nature is not to be underestimated, ever.

Eventually we come to our chosen landing and camp destination, a bay immediately before ‘Pogaroo’ Bay, which in turn is one bay before the better known Bales Beach. Our bay is the smallest by far of the three, and is protected to some degree. When we approached there were some significant swells rolling through. We spent some time happily watching it all to get the gist of how it works there. I say happily, because to watch is the safe part.  Yes, it had some big surf going on, frightening at times when the sets came. Karl opted to go in first, he threaded his way through, finding the beach exhaust flow in the middle left of the bay where even the big waves didn’t break. (Though we couldn’t see that from where we sat behind the breaks). He promptly set himself up on a high hill with paddle to sign for us go or not go. Very soon after, Ben and I waited for a lull, but the decent sized waves kept coming. Karl, high on the sand hill gestured most assertively with the paddle not to come as he could see what was happening behind us. We didn’t need to be told, we weren’t going anywhere for the time being.  One wave in particular was huge, Karl said later (he’s a longtime surfer) he was guessing at about 10 foot or 3m. Then there was a lull, and I could see the broken water outward with beach exhaust and rip centre left in the tight bay and thought “It had better be a decent lull or I’m cooked!”. It turned out to be what we needed and eventually on the same lull Ben set off inward. No waves broke at all along that line, which does a little dogleg halfway. The swell size seemed to diminish noticeably from that point on. We were all very stoked to have landed so successfully, with no mishap. After recceing the beach and surrounds we re-entered our kayaks to relocate into the very sheltered western corner of the bay a hundred metres away and set up another idyllic camp. The unnamed bay itself is extraordinary in its perfect half-moon shape with a narrow opening to the sea – very beautiful to behold. Being a gloriously warm afternoon helps no end too!!

We were now in the Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park some kilometres from the nearest road, but more recently a walking trail has been established nearby connecting with the D’Estrees end of the Park. From this site it was only approx 20 kms to paddle to Vivonne Bay on the following day, but there was still a lot of exploring to do in the morning even before Seal Bay.

Day 6 – Unknown Cove (near ‘Pogaroo’ Bay) to Vivonne Bay.

In the morning we set off to a much-diminished swell, cruising out of the centre of the bay without so much as a splash, the one to two foot reformed little shore-break near our camp was more splashy than the rip through. Passing the neighbouring larger bay directly adjacent to ours was also beautiful from our route a hundred metres off from its entrance. I was full of emotion as we passed Bales Beach:  so many swims there, and it continues to be a sacred part of my and others’ lives. In 10 days or so I will likely be there once again, and it seemed a bit weird with two completely differing contexts happening to overlap at that place.  The fresh north easterly breeze filled our sails and moved us along nicely toward Vivonne Bay.

With the wind coming in blustery from the NNE (before swinging more NE a bit later) we cleared Bales and the steep rocky cliffy shore once again resumed, though this time relatively protected by reefs a bit offshore.  A couple of micro coves presented themselves for inspection and possible landing. The first immediately after Bales proved a bit too unprotected, where there were dumpy breaks closing out its opening. I have visited there before on foot through the shallows on an exceptionally calm day and it is truly beautiful, and also accessible (just) by land. Has a very interesting honeycombed small stack that can be climbed around in to peep out of various windows!!  Not for today though. Karl and Ben went over to a potentially easier-to-explore area a bit further west, which was a cracker!  I won’t say much more about it, but this was definitely one of the trip’s highlights. Situated just outside the Seal Bay Exclusion Zone, It had a great many resident sea lions of all ages, including a bull. We had lunch and I can’t thank B & K enough for their decision to land there. (Even though in the forefront of my mind was the possible NW strong wind coming in before our scheduled close of play in Vivonne Bay around lunchtime).  This turned out to be a dire headwind, the NE intensified and came in early and made for a raging tailwind for the last hour.

After an interval with the seals and cubs and mammas and all sorts in the water and on the beach, we launched. At the point of launch intention, a mamma seal from the beach decided that she either wanted to inspect our boats a lot closer, or wanted to prevent them from entering the water, and blocked our path!  She was very intent on something, we waited until she drew away a bit. There is a pic of Karl entering the water and she is still a distance away by then but watching very intently. We did everything slowly, quietly and calmly.

Then off around the headland where we went inside the reef breaks threading our way, avoiding the locations where the bigger waves were breaking. There is always some tension at these times, the questioning…  “Have we got this right, or are we paddling into a disastrous trap?”  As we travel we check things out ahead for some distance, making mental notes, sometimes consulting maps for the locations of the reefs etc. And in the end, you either back your intuition using the evidence and visual based info, or be in undecided-land, waiting for a lull or trying to seek more evidence confirmation (sometimes this is the most appropriate) or even make the long back-track for a possible couple of kilometres.

Passing by Seal Bay beach we saw the paying tourists viewing the few seals on display there, whereas just around the corner there were lots (for no cost!) where we had just lunched among them.

Ben Blue Water Sailing, near Seal Bay

The Nobby, (an enormous detached piece of Headland alongside a wide protected channel) loomed up, and I went ahead to position myself where I could get a good pic of Ben and Karl coming through the gap to show the whole massive stack, while having them clearly visible in the gap. It was my one intentional set-up photo. Trouble was, I only casually briefed them as I paddled off. . . .well I waited and waited as they stuck together moseying along doing their exploring and seal watching and filming, while I’m blown further and further away from the desired shot. I back paddle against the wind, they hug the shore at snail’s pace, completely indiscernible, camouflaged against the texture of the Nobby, and the whole of the towering stack no longer in frame with water on each side.  I find myself way behind them and with only rubbish pics to show for it.  I put the phone away, and declare ‘ *@%@$* photography !’ and paddle strongly to catch up.  From there it was only a few kilometres of easy sailing out from the cliffs to a point where we start to work out where we think Vivonne might actually be in the 10 km distance, amid the land on the horizon. Amongst us there were some differences of opinion concerning that, so time to consult the map!

During the last hour we found that heading for the jetty was hectic and exhilarating, but also scary for me as I felt I was going too fast at times. The conditions didn’t allow me to comfortably sheath one of my sails (requiring two hands off the paddle for twenty seconds or so) or just let it flap. I was ahead of Karl and Ben who found the pace perfect, paddling away as well as the effortless sailing. It was the first time I had truly deserted them, I let as much wind out of the sails as I dared, and looked back often and figured there were two of them together to help each in case of mishap, and I’m ahead of them, so that if something happens to me I can sort myself out, or they will see me and assist. When I arrived at the jetty it proved to be inappropriate for our landing needs, so I desailed and waited in the now raging wind for the others.  We beat our way a couple of hundred metres to the boat ramp, which proved ideal in every way.

Return to the Mainland

Three very Happy Paddlers at Vivonne Bay

Our trusted beach greeter Tristan – resident of Vivonne Bay, and later to be ferryman in his car to Penneshaw – was there to welcome us. None of us had ever met Tristan, but through a mutual contact he had kindly agreed to take on the ferryman task. I had been updating him throughout the previous week to firm up a time of arrival.

On the mainland we transferred the boats went to Ben’s ute, and were off into the falling night. Driving through the treed paddocks of Karls’ neighbour as a short cut to his spectacular place on top of the range was a highlight.  Threading through the trees was just like threading through the breaking reefs of earlier in the day ……. a million miles ago it seemed.

Tresh Pearce


The Pages Island Expedition. 21st – 24th April 2023

By Greg Adams

The Pages islands expedition was the brainchild of Phil Doddridge, an ambitious adventure starting at Victor Harbor and ending at Second Valley via Tunkalilla Beach, The Pages, Pink Bay, KI, Antechamber Bay, and Cape Jervis.

The weather gods needed to be on our side, and they were, providing the perfect wind and weather conditions for this epic adventure. The only real problem was a strong ground swell.

Day 1 – Victor Harbor to Ballaparudda Beach

Seven paddlers, Phil and Pat Doddridge, Tresh Pearce, Karl Meyer, Giresh Chandran, Gordon Begg, and I met at the Bluff boat ramp, Victor Harbor at 8am on Friday the 21st of April.

Conditions were perfect, the sun was shining, and the wind was absent. We managed to be on the water and left by 9am passing The Bluff, West Island and rounding Newland Head after 2 hours paddling.

Beach Ballaparudda

Waitpinga and Parsons beaches had a large oily swell rolling in and a grey sky above, creating an eerie atmosphere.

Karl and Tresh paddled in close near the surf zone to experience the power of the swell as we continued approx. 1 km out to sea, waiting for them to join us again at Parsons beach.

Looking for a place to land

Leaving Parsons beach, we realised that landing at Tunkalilla beach with this size swell would be very difficult. There were two options, Callawonga and Ballaparudda beaches, just prior to reaching Tunkalilla. Arriving at Ballaparudda, the closest, 23km from Victor Harbor, it looked quite manageable. We decided that this would be tonight’s camp.

Tresh, Gordon, and Pat successfully made the first landings. Then Karl, I, Giresh, and Phil attempted landing. All capsized in the difficult conditions. Phil’s kayak nosedived into the sand bar causing a fatal fracture in the bow. The kayak was then swept into the rocks on the western shore. All in all, with four in the water it was a disastrous landing attempt. No one was hurt and all gear was salvaged beside the fatally damaged kayak.

Thoughts were with Phil as he had planned the expedition and now, he would have to abandon after only one day on the water.

With Karl’s local knowledge, he managed to wrangle access for his daughter, Sahara to drive down the beach through paddocks to extract Phil and Pat and their kayaks the following morning. Once things settled down, a comfortable campsite was established, and much discussion of the days adventures was had around the campfire.

Day 2, Saturday – Ballaparudda Beach to Pink Bay via The Pages

North Pages

With a healthy respect for Ballaparudda’s sandbar, the remaining paddlers said their farewells to Phil and Pat and headed out through the surf zone one at a time, Tresh leading.

Within 30 min all were out and prepared for the 16km paddle to North Pages Island in calm conditions with virtually no wind. We were heading slightly east of the islands to counter the flooding tide which worked perfectly, paddling in a tight group, and chatting, we headed south. The closest island was reached in 3 hours and there was a reasonable swell running. A fishing boat was anchored nearby, and we explored the lee of a barren, guano covered, granite island. Australian Sea Lions, screaming Gannets and Terns greeted us, this is a wild place!

Heading around the eastern side to the southern islands, we encountered clapotis waves which kept us very alert. As we paddled between the islands, large boils were appearing indicating submerged bombies. Not a place to hang around. The southern island had a lighthouse and tower. It seemed smaller but just as inhospitable. There is meant to be a place to land on one of the islands, but it was not obvious. A quick feed and discussion and we then headed to Cape Willoughby, 16km away.

To Cape Willoughby

For the first hour we had amazing conditions, blue sky and oily seas and paddling with a flood tide, 7 kph was a comfortable pace. We noticed the tide was drawing us towards Antechamber Bay and on this course, we were potentially going to run into a dangerous shoal called “The Scraper”. Gordon made the decision to head for Cape St Albans. The sea and wind picked up as we got closer to St Albans. We were then working hard against the flood tide to try to get to the cape. The tide was about to change but we were fighting a strong current. My computer was telling me we were not making much headway.

Once we got close to Cape St Albans the tide went slack and we had a beautiful 4km paddle along the cliffs to Pink Bay in the late afternoon. A 16km paddle turned into 24km taking 4.5 hours.

Pink Bay is paradise! (don’t tell anyone). Camp was set and I found out that I had left my tent poles and pegs back at the previous camp. Ben Weigl joined us, paddling from Cape Jervis to Pink Bay in 4.5 hours. He, Tresh, and Karl were going to leave us and explore the south coast of KI the following day, Giresh, Gordon, and I were heading to Antechamber Bay. A beach campfire rounded out a big eventful day.

Day 3, Sunday Pink Bay to Antechamber Bay

Pink Bay from Gazebo

We bid farewell to Tresh, Karl, and Ben at 9am the next morning and we went for a walk to Cape Willoughby. From the lighthouse we could see the trio sailing towards Cape Hart, an awesome sight.

We spent a leisurely morning exploring the lighthouse and surrounds returning to camp for lunch and a departure to Antechamber Bay by 1pm to catch the end of the flood tide. It was nice to have a bit of a rest day and only a couple of hours on the water. Passing Cape St Albans was exciting with lots of turbulence and at times travelling with the flood tide at up to 9.5 kmph. An awesome beach camp was made in Antechamber Bay on a glorious afternoon. A walk up the river and through the campground then back along the beach was the end to another perfect day.

Day 4, Monday – Antechamber Bay to Second Valley

Steam rises from the sea at sunrise, Antechamber Bay

Phil had contacted us and had decided to paddle down to Cape Jervis (from Second Valley), wait for us and complete the final leg together. The tide was due to flood at 10.30am. Gordon recommended that we head off at 9am and get as far across Backstairs Passage before the flood tide kicked in and assist us to Cape Jervis and beyond.

The sea was like a mill pond and the first 2.5 hours were a dream. But nothing is ever that easy. 8km from Cape Jervis, a 15kt (27km) northerly head wind blew against the flood tide. The sun was in our eyes and the sea was a crazy mess. It was a tough 1-hour + slog to the shelter of Cape Jervis. It felt like we were not moving but with the flood tide we were easily travelling at over 7kph and at one stage at 10.5kph. What a relief it was to paddle into the harbour and meet Phil, who was lounging on the beach in glorious sunshine. A stark contrast to where we had been.

After a 1-hour break, we headed around the corner and into the gulf. The plan was to camp on Morgan’s beach or a smaller one further north but because of the long weekend, Morgan’s was crowded with car campers. So, we decided to press on and with light winds, sunshine and a following tide, paddling cannot be better.

Because of the high tide the second beach option was not suitable, so decided to press on to Second Valley. We landed at 5.30pm on a balmy evening, finishing the expedition with the final night spent in Giresh’s holiday shack. Perfect.

Overall Statistics

  • Day 1, Friday – Victor Harbor to Ballaparudda Beach – 4 hrs, 23km
  • Day 2, Saturday – Ballaparudda Beach to Pink Bay via The Pages – 7.30 hrs, 40km
  • Day 3, Sunday Pink Bay to Antechamber Bay – 2 hrs, 10km
  • Day 4, Monday – Antechamber Bay to Second Valley – 7.30 hrs, 40km
  • Total distance travelled 113km,
  • 21 hours paddling including breaks on the water.
  • Average moving speed 5.8kph over the 4 days.