Circumnavigation of Freycinet Penninsula, Tasmania 1-3 April 2025

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The Third Paddle in Tassie

Freycinet National Park was the third of three paddles in Tasmania. The awesome, challenging and varied sea states made this sea kayaking at its best! It’s why we went to Tasmania to go sea kayaking.
The plan for this part of the Tasmanian Odyssey was to be three days paddling and two nights camping out of the kayaks. The first and last nights in the area we camped at the National Park campground at Richardson Beach. The first day’s paddling was from Richardson Beach (Coles Bay) down the sheltered west side of the peninsula and across Schouten Passage to camp on Morey’s Beach on Schouten Island; approximately 24Km. The following day paddle up the seaward side of Freycinet Peninsula to the very sheltered campsite on the south eastern end of Wineglass Bay. This bay is listed as one of the 10 most stunning beaches in the world! About 22Km for the day. The final day was onto Bluestone Bay approximately 12Km. Prior to setting off, we left some cars at Bluestone Bay to allow the group to get back to Coles Bay once the paddling was done.

Day One-1st April

In discussing the likely conditions on the night before there was some concern at the forecast 20Kn southerly winds that we would need to punch into for the 24Km down to Schouten Island. The group decided to give it a go. We had contingency plans to camp at Cook’s Beach or one of the other pristine beaches along the way if all got too much.
All were on the beach ready for the challenge at the designated start time of 930am. Conditions were calm and glassy and the view south of the coast and high peaks just stunning. The first part of paddle down to Fleurieu Point was uneventful as the coast was sheltered from the winds. Once we reached the point and turned towards Hazards Beach we were into the southerly head wind and things got quite a bit harder. We were all pleased to pull in behind Refuge Island for a short break before pushing onto Cooks Beach camping area for lunch.
Leaving Cooks Beach we were again faced with a strong southerly as we paddled the remaining 12Km to Schouten Island to camp the night. Crossing Schouten Passage directly into the wind was a major challenge and seemed to take forever. We were all thoroughly done on reaching the very sheltered bay. The camp area was great as all got stuck into preparing a well-earned meal. Greg had the foresight to check the tides and informed the group that there was an exceptionally large tide in the early hours of the next morning.  He suggested we all bring our kayaks up off the beach. If we had not done this the kayaks would have definitely drifted away as the tide consumed the beach and some of the access track that night!

Day Two-Wednesday 2nd April

The forecast for this day was for a 2m swell but light winds so we looked forward to an easy trip up the coast. On paddling out of the shelter of the bay we met huge mountains of water charging down the channel between the island and the peninsula. The paddle up to Wineglass Bay was not going to be as easy as discussions the night before suggested. Most had not paddled in such a swell and those that had took time to adjust. Once out of the channel and heading north along the cliffs things got worse as the 4m swell hitting the cliffs gave huge rebound effects creating clapotis like waves.
At times, when perched on top of a steep peak, it was hard to reach the water with your paddle! The leaders surveyed the group to ascertain if all were confident to continue as planned. Surprisingly all were up to it and after a time settled into the task with confidence. Being on top of one of the extra large swells and looking 5-6m down the face to the paddlers in front of the group was extraordinary. This day was a challenging, exhilarating paddle pushing everyone to their limits. We described it as  “dirty dancing with the sea” or like “paddling in a washing machine”.
We didn’t take many pics on this day as it was all hands on the paddle to keep moving and keep upright!
The landing site at the campsite in Wine Glass Bay was tucked in behind a headland and protected from the huge swell that was thundering in like a steam train on the other side of the bay. The camp area was rather stunning with a stream of crystal-clear water flowing behind the camp and high peaks across the bay in the other direction.
Once rested, there was time to enjoy beautiful Wineglass Bay and a walk across the narrow isthmus to look at Hazards beach.

Thursday 3rd April

The last leg involved paddling past Cape Tourville Lighthouse and onto Bluestone Bay and was considered relatively easy after what we had been through the day before. The swell had mostly abated overnight and winds were almost calm. However we had some concerns about landing on a beach which was covered with large rounded boulders. Again the coastal cliffs, small islands and sea scape on the journey were stunning. There was much relief on arriving at the landing zone to see the rocks covered with a thick layer of kelp from the storm the day before. This provided a soft landing but a slippery crawl for people once out of their kayaks.
Timing was everything in such a landing. There was still a small swell running and the occasional larger set thumping into the rocks. The leaders set up a landing system where the group was marshalled outside the break zone and sent in one by one.
Those with plastic kayaks who were competent in landing in such conditions (Gordon & Charlie) went in first to survey the scene and select the best landing zone. Once ready others followed. The aim was to allow a wave to pass under the kayak and sprint in just behind it. This lessened the risk of being smashed into the rocks or the waiting helpers. Many in the group had practiced this in benign conditions back in Adelaide and this practice added to the smooth application when it was really needed! All landed with no damage done. Phil was last and was given the “Rolls-Royce” treatment of being hoisted right out of the water and up onto the kelp. He was much appreciative as he is not so nimble any more in exiting his kayak!

Dinner

We concluded the trip and told tall stories of the events of the last two weeks over dinner at Richardson’s bistro, Freycinet Lodge. What a fabulous adventure with such a diversity of paddling and incredible country to experience. All with good friends in Adelaide Canoe Club!
Acknowledgement to Greg and Karl our professional photographers for these amazing shots! Really captured the feeling of being in such a place!

Myponga Beach — 12 May 2024

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Charlie, Mark   B, Abelardo, Mark L and Warwick joined Anne and Simon for a paddle. We launched at Myponga Beach and headied south towards Carrickalinga. The sea conditions were perfect – clear water to observe the variety of sea weeds, virtually no wind and flat seas. We had a casual paddle along the rocky cliffs with Charlie leading some rock gardening along the way. There were a few new scratches seen on his boat as he loaded it back onto his car. That must have been from the time he was left high and dry as the very slight swell retreated. Conditions were so calm that we all ventured into caves. Some big enough to turn around in and others very tight, narrow and funnelling the swell to surge your kayak in or out of the gap.

We spotted a couple of dolphins and about three seals that seemed to be following us at a small distance. Each time the seals surfaced they looked as if they were checking on us.

The sea was so calm and clear that we could see into the water to the patchwork of sea weeds below.

We had lunch on a small beach just north of Carrickalinga before returning to Myponga Beach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Distance: 13.54 Km

Winter day paddles at Blanchetown and Punyelroo — 30/31 July 2022

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 ACCCC

The Adelaide Canoeing, Caving and Climbing Club. Maybe that’s what we should rename the club. There was some of all of that on the weekend trip to Blanchetown and Punyelroo.

Saturday

Paddling around Blanchetown

The winter weather in the Riverland is normally much better than Adelaide, but not for this trip. Five paddlers set from Blanchtown on Saturday morning. The sky was overcast with a stiff headwind and the temperature reading a chilly 9 degrees. A bit of brisk paddling soon warmed us up. We crossed the Murray and headed up Cumbunga creek, threading our way through the dead gumtrees. We tried not to disturb the pelicans while being serenaded by the cockatoos, who must be preparing for spring.

The channel soon narrowed as we approached Roonka Conservation Park. This is where our first mishap occurred. Having done this trip many times I didn’t bother bringing my GPS, wandered up the wrong channel, and soon found myself in a dead end. I was firmly wedged in a thick bunch of reeds which I had tried to push through. Despite much pushing and pulling I was stuck, and was slowly resigning myself to a winter swim. Julie managed to attach a rope to the end of my kayak and pull me free. Many thanks Julie.

After backtracking and finding the right channel we soon found the Murray again, and crossed the river looking for more backwaters. Going up the narrow channel behind Julia Island, we found a secluded lagoon where we stopped for lunch. This didn’t take long thanks to the cold weather, and we were soon back in shelter of our kayaks, continuing upstream. The lagoon narrowed at the northern end of Julia Island, and we had a short portage over a road before getting back into the Murray River again.

Heading back

We decided to head home on the Murray, taking advantage of a good tail wind and a fast flowing current. Thanks to the winter, we had the whole river to ourselves. We gently paddled past the golden cliffs and magnificent gum trees, still being serenaded by the local cockatoos, until we reached our launching spot.

The group split up here. Some going back to Adelaide, while the rest of us set off to Punyelroo Caravan Park. We would stay for the night before Sundays paddle.

Thanks to new member Ghanshyam for being well prepared  and brought an electric heater and kettle. We managed to stay up in the cold and chat for a while before retiring to our tents for the night. With two sleeping bags, an insulated mattress, a couple layers of clothes, and a beanie, I had a warm cosy night.

Sunday

Campground near Punyelroo

Next morning was a leisurely start as we waited for Abelardo to come up from Adelaide for the Sunday paddle. We set off from the Caravan Park, and headed directly across the river into the lagoon to try and find Punyelroo cave. This would have been much quicker if I had my trusty GPS. We eventually managed to locate the entrance and dragged the kayaks up out of the water. We then

replaced our PFD’s and spray decks with helmets and head torches, and entered the cave to do some exploring.

The cave

Punyelroo cave is supposed to be about 3 kilometres in length. I don’t think I have ever managed to get more than a hundred meters into it before my enthusiasm gives out. We spent a good twenty minutes crouching under low roofs, scrambling over fallen boulders, banging helmets on rocks and bruising shoulders on rocky walls before called it quits. We sat for a while in the pitch darkness and total silence, imagining what it must be like to trapped in a place like that. After emerging back into daylight and fresh air, we got back into our kayaking gear and carried on up the lagoon.

The Murray river levels were high due to all the rain the country has been having. The caravan park manager told us that it was now possible to paddle all the way up the lagoon into Swan Reach, and then join the Murray river again. We reached the top end of the lagoon, and sure enough the channel was high and clear, with a good current flow.

Not enough space go under

We slowly made our way upstream, paddling right over the bridges and pipes that would normally stop us. Our luck lasted right up to the end of the channel, a few meters from the Murray. The raised river level now worked against us. The footbridge across the channel, normally easy to paddle under, was now impassable. Only a few centimetres of clearance, and no easy landing due to all the reeds.

Desperate times call for desperate measures. By standing up in the kayaks, it was possible to climb up over the bridge, and then drag the kayaks out of the river through the reeds. After everyone was over, we had a well-deserved rest and snack on the grassy bank. Shortly after, we took advantage of the current to take us back down the river back to Punyelroo and the (heated) cars, and headed back to Adelaide

Sea Kayak Paddle at Rapid Bay and Environs — 15 January 2022

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On Saturday 15th January 2022 we had 13 club members head down south to Rapid Bay for Phil Doddridge’s Rapid Bay Sea trip. Paddlers were Julie Rohde, Mark Loram, Charlie and Marina Walker, Bruce Gregor, Shauna Ashewood, Pete Drewry, Julie Palmer, Bella and Anthony, Matt Eldred and Simon Delaine. We weren’t the only ones enjoying this stunning area – the campground was packed, probably the busiest we have seen. Most of us drove down but newer member Julie Palmer joined us on the beach, showing great commitment having driven from Meningieand camped in amongst the multitude at the campground.

Getting on the water

After Phil’s paddle briefing we were on water about 9.30am and headed south aiming for Rapid Head, hoping to spot a few seals. Thought we might have lost a couple of paddlers after Phil’s explanation of “Essence of Shark” as part of the safety equipment!  (Always a handy item when paddling this area).

We grouped up just before the new jetty for final instructions about avoiding the collapsing sections of the old jetty. Wise advice considering that collapse looks imminent and many thanks to Peter Carter for the “Notice to Mariners” alert he sent. Good to see Peter is still looking after us at Sea Rescue!

We then proceeded under the new jetty, taking care to avoid the many fishing and crab net lines dangling into the water, before finding a clear section between the old jetty pylons that also offered a good photo opportunity.

Paddling around the jetties

As we paddled in between the two jetties, Phil explained how the mine and original jetty was developed and worked by BHP from 1942 until 1981, with the quarried limestone being shipped to BHP’s steelworks at Whyalla, Newcastle and Port Kembla where it was used for steel production.

In late 1981, the South Australian Government accepted BHP’s offer to transfer ownership of the mine and jetty at a cost of $1. Shortly afterwards, the mine was sold to Adelaide Brighton Cement (ABC) with the limestone shipped to its Birkenhead cement plant until 1988, when the Rapid Bay operation was scaled down. Shipping from the original jetty ceased in 1991 which was the start of its decay. The new jetty was completed in 2009 with the old jetty now off limits due to progressive collapse.

There was plenty of discussion about the state of the old jetty and mine, but Phil made the comment that without the mine tailings, there wouldn’t be a beach at Rapid Bay.

Rapid Bay is also one of SA’s best scuba diving locations with a Leafy Sea Dragon population inhabiting the bay and probably building up around the collapsing jetty.

Perfect paddle day

Perfect day to be paddling, with no wind, so it wasn’t long before we were nearing Rapid Head in search of the usually resident Australian Sea Lion population, and as always the seals didn’t disappoint! We played round for a while trying to get the perfect photo but also with eyes looking up at the stunning cliffs in search of a Sea Eagle – unfortunately no luck this trip.

After spotting the Starfish Hill Wind Farm looking towards Cape Jervis, the memories of all our Bass Strait training trips along this section of the coast came flooding back, nothing like the pleasant conditions we were experiencing with hardly any wind this time out but the memories were great.

Phil took the opportunity to check out potential rock gardening locations for future trips and it wasn’t long before Charlie was poking his nose into some of the smaller caves to take advantage of the low tide. The rest of us kept the seals company, not as many of them compared to springtime but still a good number, just wish they would be a bit more cooperative for the camera!

The turquoise colouring of the water on a calm day with the inquisitive fur seals coming close to investigate really makes this area very special! On the return paddle we even had a couple of friendly seals follow the kayaks towards Rapid Bay jetty.

Again we avoided the old jetty on our arrival, but Bruce took the opportunity to have a close look at the old rusted pylons on the way through.

Arrived back at the beach for a leg stretch and loo stop, seemed like even more people camping and enjoying the water as we navigated our way between the sit-ons and onto the beach.

After a brief stop we were soon back on water and heading north towards the sea cave then lunch stop at a small beach that Phil had selected. Wasn’t long before Mike and Shauna had their sails up taking advantage of the increasing SW wind.

Getting into the big cave

The trip date was well picked out by Phil with tides perfect for accessing the big cave. On the way north we passed plenty of come-and-try kayakers heading down to the same location, so very busy on water. Any little exposed beach seemed to have kayakers and swimmers taking advantage of the low tide.

After reaching the small rocky headland before Second Valley we turned kayaks to face into the increasing swell and wind, while those wanting to explore the cave ventured in one at a time. Others kept a good lookout for the cliff jumpers which were landing just in front of the cave entrance.

After most of us had explored the cave, we then headed back south hoping for a nice lunch stop at the larger beach – conveniently vacated by the come-and-try group just as we arrived. With the low tide, landing was easily achieved and it wasn’t long before all kayaks were nicely lined up ready for a quick exit if conditions changed.

This is a great spot for lunch, looking out over the sea without anyone else in sight. An enjoyable break for all the group, but Mike had a surprise when he discovered a skink (587) had made its home in his hat while he was busy eating lunch.

The exit channel from the beach is quite narrow, so we worked as a team to get kayaks launched and back on water again – no mishaps!

Casually paddled our way back, weaving through all the other craft heading back from Second Valley. Charlie didn’t want to leave and took a last opportunity to check out the smaller cave on the way.

Wrapping up

Bit of excitement when we arrived back at the beach, with one of the swimmers asking us to paddle out and rescue a swimmer drifting out towards Edithburgh on his car tyre tube insert – “didn’t realise how far out I was and the wind has picked up” he said as we towed him back to the beach.

Safely back on the beach about 2.30pm and soon packed up after another very enjoyable day padding from Rapid Bay. Many thanks to Phil for organising and leading the trip. Trusty GPS shows we covered 14km, with lots of twists and turns.