Murray River backwaters car camping – Katarapto, Eckerts Creek, The Splash — 19-21 September 2025

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First Day

Everyone arrived at the campsite on Friday, for a relaxed setup and chat around the fire. On-the-water time was set for 9:30 am on Saturday, but by 9am everyone was all set up and ready to go, so we set off up the Murray towards Lock 4, with a nice tailwind to help us along. Bernie phoned the lockmaster just before we got there, so there was no delay once we arrived. After everyone entered the lock, the gate closed behind us and we chatted to the lockmaster as the waters lifted us up, and the upstream gates opened.

Just after the lock we took a scenic shortcut through the Ajax-Achilles Lakes and then continued up the Murray until we reached the entrance to Eckerts creek. An easy portage had us over the regulator, and then we let the water carry us downstream, weaving around all the fallen trees. One tree proved to be impassable, until Abelardo got out his trusty saw and cut us a way through.

Onto Eckerts Creek

Eventually we reached the Eckerts Creek Wide Waters, where the creek opened up into a nice, wide oxbow lake. We paddle up into a stiff headwind, which gradually turned into a welcome tailwind as we moved around the curve of the lake.  After we reached the end of the lake, we continued down the creek until we reached Sawmill Creek, which would take us back to the Murray and our campsite.

Sawmill Creek is a very narrow waterway, luckily this time there was an artificial flooding event happening, and there was plenty of water in the creek. After a small portage around the regulator at the end of the creek we were back in the Murray river, and only a few hundred meters from our campsite.

Second Day

Sunday morning we packed up the camp first, before heading downstream to do a loop in the opposite direction. The first obstacle was the rocky weir just below the campsite. There was a good flow of water over the rocks, and despite some trepidation, everyone managed to paddle over the weir and navigate the turbulent water below it without and capsizes.

We continued down Katarapko creek until we reached the regulator at the end of The Splash. Unfortunately, due to the artificial flooding event the regulator was closed, necessitating a difficult portage over the regulator. We were rewarded with the creek being in full flood above the regulator, and continued upstream, meandering amongst the trees along the flooded creek. A leisurely paddle, with much checking of the GPS to make sure we didn’t end up in a dead end in the floodplain, we followed the creek up until we reached Sawmill Creek again, but this time from the other side.

Wrapping up

Another short paddle down the creek, around the many fallen trees, and over the regulator, and we were back at the cars and ready to return home. With a stop at the nearest bakery first of course.

Overall Statistics (Links point to GPX files)

Satuday 13 September 2026 — Katarapko – Lock 4 – Eckert Creek — 18.7Km

Sunday 14 September 2026 — Katarapko – The Splash — 10.9Km

Mid-winter trip to Kingston-On-Murray, 12-13 July 2025

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Eight paddlers escaped the cold, dreary Adelaide weather for the warm, sunny days of the Riverland over the weekend.

Day 1 – Saturday

Based at the recently reopened Kingston-On-Murray caravan park, we launched on a gloriously sunny Saturday morning and made our way up the Murray river to the small creek which gives you access to all the backwater channels of the Chambers Creek and Loch Luna channels. We opted to explore the Chamber Creek side first, and so turned right at the end of the creek, into Chambers Creek, slowly meandering up the creek trying not to disturb all the pelicans, swans and other birdlife. Conditions were so good, and everyone was paddling so well, that we got ambitious and opted to go all the up the creek to Lake Bonny for lunch. After a quick lunch we launched again for the trip home, aided by a gentle tail wind. The recent floods seems to have cleaned out some of the channels, as we were able to return via some previously reeded-up routes. It was amazing to see the height of the flood levels marked on the trees, at least 5 meters above the waterline and well above the surrounding floodplain, the water must have spread out for kilometers. We reached the campsite again at 3:30 pm having traveled 19.1 km (by my GPS), just within the trip leaders promised distance of “oh, definitely less than 20km”.

After a relaxing hot shower at the caravan park, and some conversation around the campsite, some of us headed off the nearby Cobdogla Club for a hot meal and a cold drink. You can’t beat a country pub for a decent meal after a hard day’s work.

Day 2 – Sunday

Sunday morning the weather forecast had deteriorated a bit, with winds up the 15 knots forecast, so we cancelled our plans of paddling down the Murray, and headed back into the sheltered backwaters, this time heading north up Nockburra Creek towards Loch Luna. We made our way slowly up the creek until it opened in Loch Luna, the weather forecast was a bit optimistic as the Loch was a mass of waves and whitecaps, with winds of at least 20 knots. We immediately cancelled any thoughts of exploring the Loch, and turned tail back down the sheltered creeks, away from the wind. We slowly made our way back down a different creek towards the Murray, sticking close the bank to shelter from the wind. Luckily the wind had dropped a bit by the time we reached the camp so loading the kayaks on the cars wasn’t too much of a problem.

After everyone was loaded we headed off back to Adelaide, stopping at the bakery in Waikery for some food and drink, and to plan the next trip!

 

 

Overall Statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Saturday 12 July 2025 — Chambers Creek — Lake Bonney — return — 20.3 Km

Sunday 13 July 2025 — Nockburra Creek — 11.97 Km

Chowilla — 8 – 10 March 2025

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Careful Planning

We carefully planned the trip for just after summer to avoid the heat. Unfortunately mother nature did not cooperate, with forecast temperatures of 39 degrees. Six intrepid paddlers decided to brave the heat and go anyway. Luckily for them as the weather was not as bad as expected. We had mostly overcast days and a bit of wind to keep us cool, especially after a refreshing dip in the river.

Starting at Customs House

We arrived at the launching spot near Customs House Houseboats about midday on Saturday. We  quickly unloaded the kayaks from the cars and packed, as we were all eager to set off before it got too hot. A short paddle across the river, and then we let the current take us down Suders creek to get to Hypurna Creek. This was not as eventful as it normally is. The big tree which normally blocks the creek seems to have been washed away which made the trip down relatively easy.

We paddled up Hypurna creek for another 6kms or so to get to our campsite. This was slower going than anticipated due to the lower water levels and increased number of fallen trees. Last time we paddled it, it was in flood, and we had trouble finding where the creek was.

After finding a suitable campsite we pulled up and set up camp. We soon put up tents, inflated mattresses, assembled tables and chairs. After such effort, we took a cooling swim in the creek, disturbed only by the shrimps nibbling on your feet if you stayed still for too long.

Circular Day

Next day we left the camp set up and paddled off in un-laden kayaks for a (hopefully) circular route to get back to the camp by a different creek. We continued up Hypurna creek for another 6kms, navigating an increasingly congested creek until we joined Salt Creek, which was wider but was just as congested. Another 3km of fallen trees and snags and we finally reached the Murray River, where we had a well-deserved lunch break, and another swim.

After lunch we set off down the Murray, finally paddling with the current. After 6kms of relaxing, un-congested, snag free paddling we reached the entrance to Wilperna creek, which would take us back to our camp, provided we could get through it!

Luckily Wiperna creek proved to be mostly clear despite being narrower than all the other creeks we had been through. Mostly clear. Right at the end, 100 m from the camp, the creek was completely blocked by a large fallen tree, necessitating people having the climb out of their kayaks, onto the log, drag the kayak over the log, and then climb back in again. Some people opted to skip the last step and just walked back to camp while the kayaks drifted back.

After another cooling swim, some red wine and an early dinner, we watched the sun set before heading to bed for another warm night. I definitely over packed, didn’t even need a sleeping bag really.

Last Day

Next morning we packed up the camp and headed off down Hypurna creek. This time with the current so all the obstacles were a bit easier to manage. We opted to do a short (100m) portage to get back to the Murray rather than try and paddle back up Suders creek. This wasn’t too bad despite the kayaks being loaded. Carry straps and six people per kayak made short work of it. We took the opportunity to have a final swim before setting off to do the final few kilometres to get back to the launching spot.

Upon arrival, we quickly unpacked and loaded the kayaks back onto the cars, as the cloud cover had gone, and the sun was starting to bite. We then headed back into Renmark to the nearest bakery to stock up on some unhealthy, but well deserved, treats before saying our goodbyes and setting off back to Adelaide in gloriously air-conditioned cars.

Katarapko / Eckert Creek / The Splash – 18 – 20 October 2024

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Trouble to get there

Eleven paddlers headed off to the Riverland for a 3 day / 2 night relaxing car-camping exploration of the creeks around Katarapko. Berny arrived there first, but found the access road blocked due to flooding. After a frantic phone call with the Parks Board, a different route was recommended, which was quickly passed on the rest of the group, which was still on the way. Everybody eventually got to the campsite by assorted routes, and we set up camp and had a relaxing lunch

Paddle in the arvo

That afternoon we had a short paddle down Katarapto Creek to check out the regulator at the bottom of The Splash, which, to our alarm, was closed. This would mean a nasty portage in the coming days. We all retreated back to the campsite to discuss options around the campfire with a glass of wine.

Saturday

Saturday morning everybody was keen and on the water before 9.30. We paddled up the Murray to Lock 4, where we rounded up the lock master to let us through. After that we took a scenic shortcut via the Ajax-Achilles Lakes to avoid the current in the main channel of the Murray, and then continued up to the entrance to Eckert Creek where we portaged easily over the regulator and had a morning break. It was then an easy paddle with the current all the way down Eckert Creek, until we got to a ‘T’ junction. The recommended route was to the left, the right hand route was marked ‘Beware strong currents’, naturally we took the right one! All went well till the first corner, when we encountered the first of many fallen trees blocking the channel.

After a much dragging of kayaks over, under and around logs, we eventually got to clear water where the creek widened out into a horseshoe lake, which abounded with pelicans and other birds.

We meandered downstream, enjoying the wildlife, until we got to the entrance to Sawmill creek, which was our shortcut back to the Murray and our camp. After an easy paddle down the creek, one short portage, and one last limbo under a fallen log, we arrived back at camp.

Sunday

Sunday morning we headed off in the other direction, down Katarapko creek. Everyone had fun running the short white-water section over the weir, and we let the current take us down to the massive regulator at the end of The Splash. This is normally open to paddle through, but the Parks Board had closed it off to create an artificial flooding event upstream.  This meant a strenuous portage over the weir, luckily everyone was still fresh and the kayaks were unladen. The regulators are good for the river, but I wish they would consider the kayakers and give us some good access points.

On the positive side the creek on the other side was spectacular, with the water overflowing the creek banks and spreading out onto the flood plain. We paddled leisurely upstream, following the tree line to try and stay with the creek, and not get lost in the many channels that branched off.

Waikerie Bakery

We eventually got to the road bridge near the entrance to Sawmill creek which, due the flooding event, was too low to get under, although some of us did try. Most people portaged over and then headed back down Sawmill creek back to camp at about 1 PM. After loading kayaks and packing up, we headed off to the Waikerie Bakery for a well-deserved pie and coffee.

Overall statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Friday 18/October/2024 – Causeway – Katarapko Creek – return 6.75 Km

Saturday 19/October/2024 – Causeway Campground – Murray River – Eckert Creek – 18.83 Km

Sunday 20/October/2024 – Causeway Campground – The Splash – 11.97 Km

Peer Paddle at Blanchetown exploring Cumbunga Creek and Julia Island in the Riverland – 2 Sep 2023

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Preparations

Our WhatsApp initiative is working well! Berny Lohmann suggested a Peer Paddle at Blanchetown exploring Cumbunga Creek and Julia Island on Saturday 2nd September 2023. The forecast was looking great with temperature in low twenties, sunny sky and good river flow.

Wasn’t long before Rob and Robyn Phiddian had expressed interest and as we are looking for more members to put hands up to lead Peer Paddles. I thought this would be a great opportunity to support Berny, at least by offering to drive him to Blanchetown. Berny had reported good flow there so I was keen to experience the conditions (having missed out on the flooding event in 2022).

Launching and Cumbunga Creek

We met at the carpark opposite the Caravan Park (which is still not operational following flooding) at 10 am by Paisley Riverfront Reserve, north of the bridge. Parking was nice and easy with grassy beach for launching our kayaks. After Berny’s well prepared safety briefing we launched at 10.30am and headed across the river. There was a noticeable eddyline so we angled our way upstream to accommodate the obvious flow – probably about 2 to 3 knots. After surviving the crossing without mishap we navigated our way through the numerous dead gumtrees and logs and into Cumbunga Creek.  When I bumped over a submerged log I thought maybe I should have brought my plastic kayak!  We were soon being welcomed by screeching Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos as we followed the Creek and headed north. The flow was still obvious, but nothing like mid river channel.

This section of the Creek is very open and must have been the main channel in time past! Paddling was easy with lots of Pelicans flying overhead and Cockatoos sticking their heads out of tree hollows to see who was paddling through their stretch of the river.

Roonka Conservation Park

It wasn’t long before we reached Roonka Conservation Park where the channel narrowed considerably and we had a first sighting of old homestead ruins from a bygone era.

The Cockatoos were soon replaced by Parrots emerging from hollows. The discussion soon turned towards whether they were Regent Parrots or Superb Parrots. Peter Vincent, where were you when we needed identification?

Berny, Rob and Robyn had paddled here previously so there was no problem finding the correct channel as we moved further north towards Reedy Island and Julia Island. Berny successfully led the way through the narrow channel at the northern extremity of Roonka Conservation Park and into the main river channel.  From there we headed downstream and into the channel east of Julia Island and past the Bedrock Waterski Club on the SE end of Julia Island. Judging by the ski jump and two observation towers, this area may get busy during the summer months. Thankfully this time we had the river to ourselves.

Tummies were staring to rumble by now. We went up to the northern extremity requiring a short portage across the small service bridge leading to Julia Island. After moving the kayaks to an easy launch site leading to the main river channel we unpacked lunch just below the old homestead off Murbko Road.

Lunch

We spent lunch soaking up the scenery and looking at the timber wedged in nearby trees. It was very helpful to gauge the river height during the 2022 flooding. Lunch was followed by a very relaxing paddle downstream in the main channel. We made our way along the western side of Julia Island, passing Roonka River Adventure Park and back towards the stunning cliffs below Murbko Road.

We paddled close into the cliffs and mostly had the river to ourselves aside from the occasional houseboat. The scenery was stunning with several sedimentary layers showing in the cliff.  We noticed more Whistling Kites and Cormorants along this section of the river, with the Kites nesting in stick nests high in the eucalypts while the Cormorants favoured the willows allowing easy access to the water. We encountered several nests in the willows with baby cormorants well camouflaged by the dying branches and leaves. The chicks were still covered by white down and not making any movement as we paddled by.

Just before arriving back at the launch beach we spotted a dead gum with several river height markers – 2022 at the top of the tree. One can only imagine what the river flow would have been like!

Packing and heading back

Arrived back at start at 3pm after a very enjoyable 17.5km paddle. With a short lunch break, overall time was 5 hours on a perfect day. Checking my GPS, top speed of 11km/h for an 80m section about 2km before reaching our launch point gives an appreciation of river flow.

This was my first time paddling at Blanchetown and I highly recommend this trip exploring Cumbunga Creek and Julia Island. A very easy 2-hour drive from Adelaide with a coffee and pie stop at Truro Bakery (a must visit if you haven’t already stopped there). Berny managed the trip very well and I appreciate his assistance with Peer Paddles.

After loading our kayaks and before heading of back to Adelaide, Robyn spoilt us with tea and cakes while we talked about the trip. Keep an eye on the calendar and the next river paddle.

Overall statistic (Links point to GPX Track Files)

Blanchetown – Julia Island – Return 17.5Km

Morning in Chowilla

Four days exploring the creeks in the Chowilla reserve, in the Riverland — 19-22 Aug 2023

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From Plan A to Plan B

Enjoying the calmness of ChowillaThe original trip was planned to traverse the Lindsay River. But the high river levels put paid to that, as the whole Lindsay Island was closed to the public. Making the best of a bad situation, we changed the trip to the Chowilla area, where high water levels open up a lot of normally dry creeks.

We launched at midday on Saturday and crossed the Murray to find the entrance to Suders creek, which is the entrance to backwater area. This is normally a challenge, with the entrance to the creek being narrow and fast flowing, but this time the levels were high and the current very manageable, and we were soon through to Hypurna creek, which we followed up for a few kilometers before setting up a base camp where we would stay for the next three nights.

Setting camp for the trip

After setting up camp and relaxing for a bit, we went off for an afternoon paddle to check out if the short-cut through to Salt Creek was open, as we planned to take that route the next day. Luckily the normally dry creek was easily navigable so we didn’t have to change our plans. We then retired back to camp to start dinner and sit around the campfire solving important world issues.

Day 2

Next day was an early start as we didn’t have pack up the camp. We were soon paddling through wide creeks and flooded trees through to Salt Creek.  We followed it upstream for about 8km to a horseshoe lagoon which we normally bypass. Encouraged by the high water levels we decided to explore it. We were rewarded with yet another new creek which took us back to Salt Creek, cutting 4kms off our trip.

After a few hundred meters on Salt Creek we found an unmarked creek which was flowing in the right direction. We decided to throw caution to the wind and set off down it into the unknown. Flowing water is always a good sign as it has to go somewhere. We were pleasantly surprised to find ourselves ending up in Hypurna Creek, which is where we were planning on going. After a gentle 5km paddle downstream we ended up back at camp. We were soon relaxing around the campfire discussing the next day’s paddle.

Day 3

Lunch break before paddling the MurrayNext morning, after a quick breakfast, we set off back up Hypurna Creek to do another circular loop in a different area. We passed the entrance to a shortcut to Wilperna Creek which had been planning on using, only to find that the water level was not quite high enough to make it passable. Disappointed, we carried on up to Salt Creek to have a mid-morning break and talk about our options. After a bit of discussion we decided to continue to the Murray, and follow that around to the entrance to Wilperna Creek.

Normally we try to avoid the main channel of the Murray, too big and too busy. But this time we found the river pretty much deserted. A relaxed paddle had us going down the river at 10 km/h. There was a lot of water in the river! At that pace we were soon through Higgins Cutting and did the 8kms to Wilpurna Creek with no trouble at all.

Wilpurna Creek is one of my favourite creeks, narrow and winding, with not too many obstacles. But it can be hard to find, as the entrance is small and is just downstream from the NSW border. Unfortunately the sign for the border is about ½ a kilometre away from the actual border, on the wrong side of the creek. Luckily my trusty GPS had the entrance marked with a waypoint. We practically floated down Wilperna Creek, around fallen trees, escorted by curious emus and seeing the occasionally kangaroo, and were soon back at camp again.

Chris had bought his yabbie nets along (I don’t know how he fits it all in his kayak), and had got lucky while we had been away. That night he treated all of us to some fresh yabbie meat snacks.

Day 4

Salt creek navigationOvernight our luck changed, and we had a bit of rain. Nothing heavy, but just enough to turn the ground into sticky mud, 10 steps were enough to add a few kilograms of the stuff to your shoes. After breakfast the camp was packed up quickly and carefully, trying to avoid most of the mud, and stopping occasionally to scrape the worst of off your shoes. Most of the gear went into the kayak reasonably cleanly, but the kayak cockpits ended up decidedly brown.

We paddled back down Hypurna Creek, aided by the current, paddling through trees which normally line the side of the creek. Some paddlers decided to do the portage back the Murray, while the rest decided to try paddling back up Suders. The portage point is well signposted, but we couldn’t find any of the signs, can only think that they must have been underwater. Kayaks were soon carried across to the Murray. The rest of the paddlers set of to try our luck going up Suders Creek. This proved to be an anti-climax, as it was an easy paddle back to the Murray and the cars.

We quickly threw  all the gear back in the cars, loaded the kayaks on the roof and put on some presentable clothes.  We then headed back to Renmark and the nearest bakery to indulge in a cup of hot coffee and some unhealthy treats before heading back to Adelaide, and a lot of washing of kayaks and gear.

Overall statistics (Links point to GPX track files)

Saturday 19 August – Customs House to Campground, recce in the arvo – 11.95Km

Sunday 20 August – Salt Creek, Horseshoe Lagoon, Hypurna Creek – 24.1Km

Monday 21 August – Salt Creek, Wilpurna Creek, Murray River – 26.0Km

Tuesday 22 August – Campground, up Suders creek back to Customs House – 7.45Km

Setting camp
Preparing campground in Chowilla
Glassy water in Salt Creek
Truly flat water
Enjoying the calmness of Chowilla
Emus following along Chowilla creek
Good catch!
Yabbies for dinner
Campfire in Chowilla
Getting ready for dinner
Lunch break before paddling the Murray
Creek navigation
Salt creek navigation
Meandering among the gumtrees
Morning in Chowilla
Replenishing energy after the four-day expedition
Through Chowilla

Four day downstream meander in the creeks of the Riverland, 7- 10 Apr 2023

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The River is Green

Five kayakers headed up to the Riverland to inspect the aftermath of the recent floods by paddling all the backwaters from the Chowilla Reserve back to just before Renmark, a distance of 68kms. Happily we can report that the river levels are back to normal, most businesses are open, and the whole area is looking magnificent: I have never seen it so green with so much bird life. If you can, get up there to have a look, the floods have done wonders for the countryside.

Good Friday

Charlie in the MurrayWe started our trip on Friday lunchtime from the launch spot near the Customs House Houseboats, crossed the river to get into Suders creek and off the Murray as soon as possible. Suders creek was its normal fast-flowing self, but now (thanks to the floods) with a new tree stuck right in the middle of the channel at the fastest spot, with associated eddies. This resulted in one capsize and a few near misses, not a good start to the trip! After getting organised again, we continued down the creek, avoiding the many snags to set up camp on Chowilla creek.

Leisure Saturday

A leisurely start next morning saw us paddling slowly down Chowilla creek, assisted by the current while we watched the scenery. A pair of wedge tailed eagles was spotted, along with many straw-necked ibis and the more common sacred ibis. We were also fortunate to see a lot of Black-tailed native hens, which we have never seen before. Apparently they are nomadic and take advantage of temporary wetlands, so the conditions after the floods must be ideal for them.

At the end of Chowilla creek we reached the Murray and turned left for a few kilometres to look for the next creek which would take us into Hunchee, and then RalRal creek. We stopped at the Chowilla Woolshed for lunch, where the full extent of the flooding became apparent; we were sitting on the bank at least 2 meters above the river, and could see the flood marks another 1 meter up on a building. Trying to estimate how wide the river would have been at the level was truly scary, I’m sure it must have been difficult to even find the main channel of the Murray at that level.

A Short Shower on Sunday

The third day dawned cool and overcast as the others had, but this time we were treated a short shower of rain, luckily we were all in our kayaks with wet weather gear on so we didn’t get much wetter than we already were. After turning off into RalRal creek we had a short detour to have a look at Lake Woolpolool, but the water levels were already too low to get over the regulator and into the lake itself. Maybe next time.

Portage in ChowillaJust after that there was a bit of excitement where the creek narrowed into almost a small rapid under a low bridge, with a tree waiting in the river downstream. With memories of Suders creek still fresh in our minds, some of us opted to do a short portage to avoid the obstacle, while the rest of the group took it in turns to carefully paddle through. Luckily it wasn’t as bad as it looked and no-one else went swimming.

After a leisurely paddle down the RalRal Wide Waters (which is actually a lake wider than the Murray itself), we found the entrance to Nelbuck creek and set up camp for the night. Peter put out his yabbie net and managed to supplement dinner with 2 nice size yabbies, although cooking them in a small hiking stove was a bit of a challenge.

Wrap up Monday

Next morning we continued down the creek back into the Murray and had a brief stop at the old Woolenook Internment Camp from World War II. Nothing much is left of it now except for a few plaques, but worth a look.

Another kilometre or so down the Murray and we found the imaginatively name Inlet creek, which we followed into Horseshoe Lagoon, and from there navigated our way through the creeks and lagoons back to Canoe-The-Riverland, where Ruth and Jim had kindly let us leave one of our cars for the shuttle back to our launch spot.

If you feel like a paddle in the area, be sure to contact them. They do organised tours and kayak hire, and have the best maps of the area: https://www.canoetheriverland.com/

Multi-day kayak camping trip in the backwaters of the Murray river in the Chowilla reserve — 14 October 2022

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Water Everywhere

There is a lot of water in the Murray at the moment. So much so that all the campsites in the parks are closed due to flooding. We even considered  cancelling this trip. So glad we didn’t. Murray river may be high and flowing too strongly to paddle easily. But all the backwaters are even higher, with easy paddling and lots of normally dry creeks now easily navigable

The launch from near the Border Cliffs Campground was easy thanks to the high water levels. No scrambling down steep banks! We paddled slowly across the river as the current took us downstream to the entrance to Suders Creek. This creek is normally narrow and fast-flowing, and can be challenging. This time it was wide and easy. The usual obstacles were under water and we could paddle in amongst the trees that were normally high and dry on the banks.

From there we headed up Salt Creek and took advantage of the high water to investigate a normally dry creek. This route took us back to Hypurna Creek via some newly created wetlands. An unexpected treat was spotting a pair of wedge-tailed eagles, with what looked like a newly built nest. No sign of chicks, but it was hard to tell with the nest being so high. A short paddle up Hypurna Creek and we reached our campsite for the next two nights. We quickly put up tents, chairs and tables and we settled in to relax for the rest of the afternoon.

The Big Loop

Setting up camp

Next day was a relaxed start as we did not have to pack up camp. We did a nice easy circular route planned with unloaded kayaks, to bring us back to the same campsite. Started paddling slowly up Hypurna creek, which was sometimes confusing due to all the new channels which were now open, thank goodness for the trusty GPS. We were accompanied for a short period by some emus, which seemed curious more than alarmed, and allowed us to get really close. I guess they didn’t know what to make of these brightly coloured things floating on the water.  When we reached Salt Creek we opted to take the longer route to the Murray, this is normally not navigable without a portage due to a causeway. This time there was no sign of the causeway or the bridge which were marked on the map.

We reached the Murray River, paddled a whole 100m downstream, and went back into the other entrance to Salt Creek. Must be the shortest distance I’ve ever paddled on the Murray. Our aim was to get back to a small creek which was not on the map, but now had plenty of water and was flowing from Salt Creek in the direction of Wilperna Creek, which was where we needed to go.

Wilperna Creek is normally a small, winding, snag choked place, today it was a broad, open river, and we made good time following the current downstream towards our campsite. All went well until a kilometre before the turnoff to the campsite, where we inadvertently took a wrong turn into yet another creek which wasn’t on the map. We soon realised our mistake, but the creek was flowing in the right direction, so we continued along and magically popped out into the right creek just above our campsite.

The Scenic Route

Paddling Hypurna Creek

Next day the camp was quickly packed up and everyone was feeling good. We decided to take a more scenic route back to the cars. We paddled down Hypurna Creek which, in places, resembled a lake rather than a creek, and spent our time trying to pick out the normal course of the creek amongst all the flooded trees. Then we bypassed the normal portage back to the Murray, and also Suders Creek (which we could have easily paddled up in the current conditions), and continued down Slaney Creek for another 3 kms to a small creek which joined up with the Murray.

We had never paddled this creek before due to the imposing regulator at the entrance, which is normally impassable without dragging kayaks up steep banks and through thick bush. This time the water had bypassed the regulator, and we all paddled past without even getting out of our kayaks.

Back in the Murray, we crossed over and hugged the bank out of the main current as we paddled the last kilometre back to the cars. Getting the laden kayaks out of the water was easy thanks to the conveniently high water levels. We were soon packed up and heading to Renmark for the customary debrief at the bakery.

Map and GPX file

Click in the image below to access the map of the trip and its corresponding GPX file

Wilperna and Hypurna Creeks

Murray River: Lindsay Island Circumnavigation — 15-18 April 2022

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Settling down

Things didn’t start well. Some of us decided to travel down a day early to avoid the traffic and find a suitable launch and landing spot. We soon discovered that the tracks in the Murray Sunset national Park didn’t match the maps we had, and some of the tracks were blocked due to the high levels of the river. Eventually we managed to find a suitable spot at the mouth of the Mullaroo Creek near the regulator, sent out new directions to the rest of the group, and settled down to wait for them around the campfire.

Next morning, after everyone arrived, we launched into the Murray River above the regulator. The regulators are wonderful for the health of the river but they don’t make life easy for kayakers: it would be virtually impossible to portage a loaded kayak around the regulator.

Toupnein Creek

We made very good progress down the Murray thanks to the strong flow adding 2-3 km/hr to our speed. After a civilized lunch on the lawn at Lock 7, and a chat to the lockmaster as he let us through, we carried on down the Murray to the entrance to Toupnein creek. The creek was also flowing strongly, carrying us between banks lined with magnificent gum trees. We quickly found a lovely site and stopped for the night.

Swim in Kulkurna beach

Next morning we woke up to another perfect day and, after a leisurely breakfast, we packed up camp and drifted down Toupnein creek again until it re-joined the Murray again. We stopped below the Kulkurna Cliffs on a sandy beach for lunch, and took the opportunity for a cooling swim. After lunch we made good time down the Murray, helped along by the current, and took the opportunity to have a look at entrance to Salt Creek, wondering how to organise a trip which would include the Lindsay river and into Salt Creek and from there to Chowilla. Maybe next time.

Lindsay River

From there it was a short paddle past Higgins Cutting to find the entrance to Lindsay River. Luckily this turned out to be wide with not much flow, as from now on it was all upstream! After a few kilometres we found a nice secluded backwater and landed to make camp. Tents were soon put up, wet paddling gear was changed for more comfortable clothes, supper was made and eaten, and the group settled in around the campfire to discuss solutions to the world’s problems.

Day 3 saw everyone packed and ready to leave at 9am, we made good progress up the Lindsay, which was still wide and slow. Eventually we made it to the junction with Mullaroo creek, had a break for lunch and turned up into the Mullaroo. Progress was now a bit slower as the creek was narrower, with a faster current to overcome. It was also more interesting, with lots of twists and turns and fallen trees to navigate past. This kept us occupied until about 3pm, when we called it a day, found a nice campsite and stopped for the night.

Here comes the rain

Peter decided that, since the weather had been so perfect with warm nights and no mosquitoes, he would skip putting up a tent and sleep under the stars. This proved to be tempting fate too much, as a few hours later the clouds rolled in and the first few drops of rain started to fall. After a hurried meal, and an even more hurried putting up of a tent by Peter, everyone skipped the normal evening conversation and had an early night.

Navigating obstacles

It rained lightly but steadily through the night, but luckily cleared up by morning. We were on the water 30 minutes early as everyone had had an early night. We were eager to get going before the rain started again. The creek slowly got narrower and more choked the further we went upstream, but we managed to navigate all the obstacles without having to resort to getting out of the kayaks and dragging: somehow there was always a way around or through the fallen trees. About midday we finally spotted the finish spot with warm dry cars waiting.

Packing back

Kayaks were hurriedly unpacked and loaded onto the cars, carefully trying to avoid getting too much mud into the cars. Everyone now relaxed as the adventure was over, or so we thought. The overnight rain had turned the tracks out of the park into a slippery mess, churned up by all the departing Easter campers. After about 20 kms of frantic sideway sliding, wheel spinning, and steering wheel gripping, we finally made it back onto the sealed road, and then on to Renmark to have the customary bakery stop to swap stories and say goodbyes.